What exactly is Cor-Ten, and is it worth it?

If you pay any attention at all to design and architecture, you may have heard the term Cor-Ten thrown around quite a bit. Cor-Ten is a registered trademark name for a type of weathering steel alloys, owned by the US Steel Corporation. It was first developed in the 1930’s for rail cars for coal transportation, and premiered in architectural applications in 1964, when Eero Saarinen used it for his design of the John Deere World Headquarters in Illinois. Since then, its popularity has skyrocketed for uses in architecture, landscape installations, and outdoor sculpture. Specifying it will land you at a price tag of double of what the regular A36 (that’s carbon steel, or mild steel to you and me) will cost. This made me ponder at what point it is actually worth specifying Cor-Ten as opposed to its humbler, more commonplace cousin. I had fun researching this, so bear with me when I start from the beginning.

Staining is the one thing you need to detail for, because it WILL happen.

Don’t you just love that rusty red? The staining is inevitable however, and one thing you really need to detail for, because it WILL happen. I will touch more on that further down in this post.

First, a little primer: All metals can be divided into two basic groups – pure metals (= basic elements), and alloys. The pure metals are down to their basic atomic structure and can’t be refined any further, but they can be combined with each other, in which case they become alloys. The alloys can then be categorized into two major types – ferrous (from the Latin word for iron) and non-ferrous. Since Cor-Ten is a ferrous alloy, lets start with a historical glimpse at iron. As a fun aside – to hear a stunning rendition of the Periodic Table, click here! 🙂

By adding coke and limestone to iron ore in a blast furnace, the iron is separated from its ore. In this state, it is still not pure – it contains about 5% carbon and smaller amounts of other elements. Back in the day, the molten iron from the blast furnace would be collected in a channel to which long molds were attached, like piglets suckling from a sow. The basic bars from these molds were called ‘pig iron’. Pretty fun, huh? From pig iron, two kinds of iron were made; cast iron and wrought iron. Cast iron is more brittle, whereas wrought iron lends itself well to shaping, but neither is as strong as steel. But, fast forward to now… The overwhelming majority of raw pig iron produced today, is headed for the steel mills where it is turned into thousands of different types of steel, depending on which, and how much of other chemical elements are added to the mixture. Generally, steel can be sorted into three different classification: carbon steel, alloy steel, and tool steel.

Here is a gate I designed for a client a few years ago. This is an example of wrought iron set within a framework of pre-fabricated steel tubing, and powder-coated black.

This is a detail of a gate I designed for a client a few years ago. This is an example of wrought iron set within a framework of pre-fabricated steel tubing, and powder-coated black.

Carbon steel is iron with less than 1% carbon and is the most widely used. Tool steel is a fine-grade steel, often made with only iron and carbon. Tool steel is the most expensive of all steel types. Alloy steels contain some carbon, but also other elements. From the excellent book ‘Direct Metal Sculpture’ by Meilach and Seiden: “For example, the addition of chromium to the carbon steel results in stainless steel – an alloy that is tough, durable and rust-resistant – properties that make it a favorite among sculptors. The addition of nickel increases toughness and resistance to heat and acids; manganese increases strength and resistance to heat; tungsten retains hardness at high temperatures; vanadium increases strength and resiliency or springiness. There are many other elements and materials which can be used for various purposes, but these are the most common.”

From Wikipedia.

From Wikipedia.

Cor-Ten is a high-strength, low alloy steel with the prime objective to obviate the need for protective coatings. Like any untreated carbon steel, its surface rusts when exposed to the elements, but its alloy metals allow it to develop a patina consisting of a protective oxidized layer that slows down any further atmospheric corrosion. According to this Cor-Ten Q & A, “Laboratory analysis of the rust film have shown that the alloying elements in the steel, particularly copper, chromium, and nickel produced insoluble compounds that clogged the pores at the rust/steel interface, thereby ending the regeneration.” On a microscopic level, the oxidized layer is smoother than the surface of carbon steel, and thus holds less water. The rate of corrosion in weathered steel slows after 2-5 years, but it will never cease to corrode completely.

The use of weathering steels is not recommended in overly wet environments – it needs distinct wet and dry periods to develop its patina. Per this source, it also is not recommended for use closer to marine environments than 2 kilometers. The reason is that salt in the coastal air retains moisture, and would maintain a constantly moist environment on the surface – keeping the essential dry periods at bay. (This surprised me, as – per the same article – it is the material shipping containers are made of. Mind you, they are usually painted, but still… I read somewhere that Cor-Ten should not be painted until it has weathered enough to have developed a complete patina, as the prematurely added coating would hinder the development of its protective layer. On the other hand, if painted after it had had a chance to weather properly, any damage to the finish would not result in the kind of rust that would ensue had the material underneath been mild steel. Still though – I have to wonder if weathering steel wouldn’t last longer than A36 at the coast. Sure, it might not last as long as it would in a more inland location, but my guess is that those copper, chromium and nickel compounds would slow down the deterioration process – at least somewhat. Per the guys at Delia which I wrote about in my last post, using Cor-Ten for planter boxes is overkill, unless you are on the coast, or in really exposed environments.

Anyway – to answer the title question – nope, it is very likely NOT necessary to pay double for Cor-Ten planters. You will get the same rusty look with A36, and with a thicker gauge – say 10 or 12 – it will last for many years. Remember – you’re not supposed to leave moist organic material like soil or leaves against the Cor-Ten surface anyway, as it will cause it to deteriorate in the same manner as “regular” steel. And, you probably would need to water your plants at least sometimes…. right? Also, to be picky – Cor-Ten isn’t really any one type of steel – there are variations:  … There are basically two types of Cor-Ten that are most prevalent, Cor-Ten A (generally up to 12mm thick) and Cor-Ten B (generally 15mm thick and above). The comparison of Cor-Ten to the ASTM grades is loosely stated as Cor-Ten A is equivalent to  ASTM A242 and Cor-Ten B is equivalent to ASTM A588 Grade A.  Cor-Ten A and B both meet and/or exceed the requirements of ASTM A606 Type 4. [A606 is the thin sheet version.]

Regardless of which steel you choose, you are going to have to plan for rust runoff – because it WILL happen. Unless you specifically want rust stains on surrounding surfaces, you should create some kind of way for the rusty water to collect and disperse, where the resulting orange discoloration won’t bother you. Or choose to have the steel sit on a surface of a color that blends well with the rusty water.

I'm thinking maybe something like an edge filled with gravel or pebbles, dark enough to mask the orange. Here, the vertical surface is concrete, but it could be steel... Terrible photo, but you get the idea...

I’m thinking maybe something like an edge filled with dark gravel or pebbles surrounding the steel – which, if it is Cor-Ten, can be switched out after the weathering is completed. Or, in the case of mild steel, dark enough to mask the orange runoff.  Here, the vertical surface is concrete, but it could be steel. Terrible photo, but you get the idea…


In the case of mild steel, I suppose you could clear coat it, once it’s reached the level of rustiness you desire. (With Cor-Ten you obviously wouldn’t have to.) Or, even better, you could incorporate the staining into your design like in the design below. I really love how this makes the inevitable part of the design! Good design really IS in the details! 🙂 Now go out there folks, and get yourself some steel! It’s such a cool material!

I love how this makes the inevitable staining part of the design!

Besides the websites I linked to, my research for this post came from my trusted old second edition copy of Edward Allen’s ‘Fundamentals of Building Construction, Materials and Methods’, the wonderful ‘Direct Metal Sculpture – Creative Techniques and Appreciation’ by Meilach and Seiden, and Rob Thompson’s excellent ‘Manufacturing Processes for Design Professionals’.














About annamadeit

I was born and raised in Sweden, By now, I have lived almost as long in the United States. The path I’ve taken has been long and varied, and has given me a philosophical approach to life. I may joke that I’m a sybarite, but the truth is, I find joy and luxury in life’s simple things as well. My outlook on life has roots in a culture rich in history and tradition, and I care a great deal about environmental stewardship. Aesthetically, while drawn to the visually clean, functional practicality and sustainable solutions that are the hallmarks of modern Scandinavia, I also have a deep appreciation for the raw, the weathered, and the worn - materials that tell a story. To me, contrast, counterpoint, and diversity are what makes life interesting and engaging. Color has always informed everything I do. I’m a functional tetrachromat, and a hopeless plantoholic. I was originally trained as an architect working mostly on interiors, but soon ventured outside - into garden design. It’s that contrast thing again… An interior adrift from its exterior, is like a yin without a yang. My firm conviction that everything is connected gets me in trouble time and time again. The world is a big place, and full of marvelous distractions, and offers plentiful opportunities for inquiry and exploration. I started writing to quell my constant queries, explore my discoveries, and nurture my curiosity. The Creative Flux was started in 2010, and became a catch-all for all kinds of intersecting interests. The start of Flutter & Hum at the end of 2013 marks my descent into plant nerd revelry. I occasionally contribute to other blogs, but those two are my main ones. For sure, topics are all over the map, but then again - so am I! Welcome to my blogs!
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21 Responses to What exactly is Cor-Ten, and is it worth it?

  1. fabulous article. envy people with an attention span for the research. considering it good I made thru your whole article…

  2. Really fascinating explanation of a complex technical subject.

    • annamadeit says:

      Thanks! I’ve experienced so much hype about it lately, so I felt I needed to get to the bottom of it. Glad I did, as it turns out that it’s a waste of money unless you use it for something that will get those crucial wet/dry cycles – which planters clearly won’t. 🙂

  3. Pingback: Judgmental for a day! | Flutter & Hum

  4. Linda Stephen says:

    Can’t wait to find some. I think it could be truly beautiful in the yard!

  5. Alan @ it's not work, it's gardening! says:

    Wouldn’t Cor-Ten last twice as long, as it’s corroding at the “mild steel” rate on the inside (soil side) of the planter, but much more slowly on the outside where the protective finish can form? So maybe it *is* worth paying twice?

    • annamadeit says:

      Good point, Alan, but to my understanding, the doubling in cost doesn’t give you double the longevity. You might get a few more years out of it, but it is unlikely you’d get twice as much. I guess each person has to make up their own mind about what they are willing to spend. But I imagine that after a couple of decades of looking at the same planter, that many of us might be ready to try something new. And, beyond a certain gauge, mild steel lasts a surprisingly long time. That said, I would definitely run the numbers and decided what’s worth what, to you.

      • Patricia A Mitchell says:

        Annamadeit, IF using A36 steel for garden edging, near Austin, where it’s wet part of winter, then spring but dry and hot through the summer/fall, how long would you expect A36 steel edging to last? Are we talking 20 years? or 5? Curious because i’d like to use it bc Corten is too expensive for the amount I need but I don’t want to replace it in five years either. I will have rocks around it and drip around plants so other than rain, it won’t get wet. Thank you, Patty

      • annamadeit says:

        It all depends on how thick you choose your edging to be, of course, but it should last at least a decade – probably more. Sinking it into fast draining gravel will further prolong the decay. Good luck, and thanks for reading!

  6. Leslie says:

    Thank you for this. I’ve been thinking about using CorTen for an interior project, and the fabricator can’t get a sheet big enough, so I’m faced with mild steel. I’ve been fairly unwilling to compromise on the material until now. Your research has made that decision MUCH easier! And you’ve probably saved me a stack of cash too! 🙂

  7. Ttang says:

    Great read, thank you! Based on your article I’ve decided to go A36 mild steel on my large planters. I am thinking 1/4″ thick plate but don’t know how long it will last. Any ideas on longevity? I could bump up to 3/8″ steel. Should I coat the inside of the planter with a high-performance waterproofing like PMMA to extend the lifespan?

    • annamadeit says:

      So glad you enjoyed it, Ttang! Ultimately it depends on the size of your planters so the sides don’t bulge when you fill it with soil, but I would imagine 1/4″ would last you a long, long time. You can get away with less thickness if you put a small edge on it for stability. Be sure to allow it to drain freely out the bottom for max longevity. I would take the advice of the people building it for you – they know their materials. Unless you’re welding it yourself, of course… Thanks for reading!

  8. Jason Kimes says:

    Thanks for the article, I’ve read several now & all have been helpful. As an outdoor sculptor I moved to corten several years ago & have enjoyed the greater confidence/authority that’s comes from no longer having to admit mild steel won’t last forever. It’s tough to find info like yours that isn’t written for a chemical engineer or for the other end of the spectrum, the back-yard-castor.

  9. Tony Lundy says:

    What mill in the us manufactures a606 corten coil . I want to purchase large volumes 72 inch wide .125 to .135 . Would be interesting to know what set up cost for a mini mill is as well.

    • annamadeit says:

      Oh dear – I haven’t got the faintest idea! Start calling around to steel mills, and you will probably find one who can help you out. Good luck!

  10. osacorp1985 says:

    I wanted to buy a couple corten planters to put near our pool, here in Las Vegas. But I’m wondering if it would get hotter to touch then say the pavers around it? Here, just the metal on a seatbelt is hot enough to burn you – does this material heat up the same way?

    • annamadeit says:

      It definitely does – all steel does. Maybe you could line the planters with something – like pavers, or plywood, or something with a lower conductivity. Mind you, if the planters would be sitting on hardscaping, you would also have to deal with staining.

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